There’s more to a slow moving sandy river than a fishing destination. Yesterday a group decided it was time to float a small river near my home. Four gals and one guy. Normally pretty good odds right?
My wife, daughter, and two other good friends in inner-tubes in brightly colored regalia tried to scare every fish in the river.
I did the smart thing and enlisted my Crow Wing Kayak to maneuver and keep away from this floating disruption.
This river is controlled by a dam and is normally very low in the middle of the summer. Recent rain storms have brought it up allowing for super floating and fishing.
I assumed the fishing would be tough since there are few holding areas for fish along the shallow sandy bottom. I did finally manage one decent (16 inches) smallie on a yellow popper.
I arrived at a known hot spot down river and got out of the kayak, attached it to my waist with a rope, and slowly waded my way down the run. I hit a fish on the first cast and then missed a big one on the third. I got him to come up one more time and held him briefly before we parted. That was it for the popper action.
I decided to switch tactics and probe beneath the surface. One can do this when wade fishing to cover good spots more thoroughly than when drift fishing. Sure enough, a green Clouser produced three more fish out of the run that never would have hit the popper. I cover this in quite a bit of depth in my eBook: Top Ten Flies for Smallmouth Bass.
When river fishing, it’s common to see boats drifting down a bank working flies off the shoreline. Smallmouth bass often will hold close to the bank and this method of “bombing the banks” can be a very effective way to fish smallies any time of year. Another twist to this technique is to drift mid stream reefs and structure to target fish that see little pressure.
Alternatively, a very effective and simple way to get the most out of specific area is to wade fish. Many smallmouth and trout anglers prefer this method since one can scour an entire area, working different kinds of water thoroughly, before moving.
Drift fishing and bank bombing are largely targeting the more aggressive fish, tempting them to react quickly to an unexpected meal. Time of day and presentation method vary.
For example, in Minnesota smallmouth surface activity is generally best in the afternoon. I presume this has to do with rising water temperatures, but I am unsure exactly why fish look up more in the afternoon than earlier in the day. After fifteen years of experiencing this behavior I know for a fact they generally will turn on a popper better later in the day.
The prime summer time hours for top water are from 3:00 to 6:00 p.m. Often, the hour just before dark in not as good as earlier in the evening. Obviously dark, cloudy days and other factors can initiate surface activity all day long, but rarely. To stack the odds in your favor, if you want top water, go in the afternoon.
Last Saturday, on a trip through the Beaver Islands south of St. Cloud, MN, we had the privilege of floating some of the finest bronzeback water in the country. Fist-sized rocks and large boulders scattered about and few weeds make this a joy to fish in and around the myriad of riffles, runs, pools, reefs, and rock fields.
We started by parking on a gravel bar and wade fishing an area. Most of the action was subsurface and the size of the fish ranged from 12 to 15 inches. I like to pull out a popper periodically to “check” and see if they will hit one. If I don’t get a strike in slower water, adjacent to a seam or eddy within ten minutes, I will switch back to subsurface.
We caught fish on a variety of patterns including:
I had the pleasure of catching my first fish on a homespun tube fly in a chartreuse and white design. I used the HMH equipment, including their super Spartan Vise to craft several flies both weighted and unweighted.
At 3:00 p.m., right on schedule, the top water activity commenced. Remember to keep checking throughout the day to determine when (and if) they start looking up. The rest of the afternoon was spent in bronzeback heaven as big fish blasted ourin-shore poppers in a lime color.
To wade or drift…? Be prepared to do both and give the fish what they want!
In response to the previous post and the question: “What could be better?”
I have an answer: Dragonflies!
Keep your eyes peeled in your area for dragonflies. This time of year there are hatches of several different species and it’s like ringing the dinner bell for bass.
Observe the surface of local lakes and rivers under calm wind conditions. You might see bass busting dragonflies on the surface. Dragonflies eat and mate this time of year.
Often, during the mating process they are injured and will drop to the water - such is the price to pay for love!
Just about any popper will work for most fish under these circumstances since they are looking up and turned on to these big food items. Get the All Purpose Popper Selection Here.
A better option is to at least match the general color of the dragonfly with a popper. If that in sub-optimal, then go for a large Hexigenia-type pattern with spread wings - you will not fail. If standard popping doesn’t produce, try shivering the fly. A wounded or nearly spent dragon will hit the water and struggle for a while. A tight “shiver” performed by simply shaking the rod tip, will replicate an injured dragon and bring big results.
Yesterday on a small mid-Minnesota lake I caught a bunch of largemouth greedily snarfing up most anything that hit the surface. Two days later we smacked ‘em good on a small tributary to the Mississippi.
Tie into this action on your local waters before the Dragons of June are gone.
Saltwater is highly corrosive and damage to your reel will likely result if precautions are not taken to remove salt residue at the end of each day. We can not overemphasize the importance of daily rinsing and flushing when our reels are used on saltwater!
The entire reel should be submersed in warm fresh water and agitated to remove loose sand and debris. Warm water helps dissolve the salt. While holding the reel under water, strip approximately 30 feet of line from the reel. After winding the line back on the reel, remove the spool by loosening the knurled cap located on the handle side of the reel. Separate the spool from the frame by pulling apart. Thoroughly flush the exposed surfaces of the reel including the spool bearings. Avoid using high pressure spray, because this could force debris into unwanted areas, especially in the reverse clutch mechanism. Shake off excess water and let dry before reassembling.
Reels should not be soaked in water for long periods of time. Salt residue will not dissolve from tightly wound backing. At the end of a trip, line and backing should be completely stripped from the reel and soaked and cleaned separately. Also, prolonged soaking can distort the cork material and result in an uneven drag.
Cleaning and Lubricating your Fly Reel
In addition to routine flushing, your reel will benefit from a thorough cleaning and lubrication. This should be performed after every saltwater trip and also periodically, depending on use. It is also a good idea to clean and lubricate prior to long-term storage of the reel.
I received this recently from Curt Nordrum, the irrascible leader of the St. Paul fly fishing club: The Fly Chuckers. His newsletters always contain helpful information and words to the wise. Here is a nice reminder of the evolution of a sportsman, something we can all put to good use: